Of Varanasi Vignettes, Vinegar & a Post Card from Christnagar!

# chhotebhai –

Varanasi has a special place in my life, long before “You Know Who” discovered it 10 years ago. It’s a long story harking back 55 years.

The immediate cause for this piece was occasioned by the sacerdotal golden jubilee on 29th September of a good friend Rev Dr Joseph Satyanand of the Indian Missionary Society (IMS), Varanasi. He was joined by Rev Thomas Vijayraj while a third companion couldn’t make it from Kerala. I was one of the rare laypersons invited, other than the relatives from Palai and Wynaad in Kerala, from where Satyanand hails.

He is a brilliant theologian who taught Indian philosophy and comparative religion in several seminaries across the country. He was the Superior General of the IMS for two consecutive terms, a total of 12 years. What is even more striking is that after his term in office ended he chose to move to Matridham Ashram, also in Varanasi; not as the head but as an ordinary member, guiding the Khrist Bhakts (unbaptised followers of Jesus) and toiling in the garden. This is one area where diocesan priests (especially the English school principal types) could learn from Religious orders. Today you are at the top, tomorrow you are at the tap, washing dishes.

I first met Satyanand circa 1977 when he was at the Papal Seminary, Pune. As per custom I respectfully greeted him, “Good morning Father”. He shot back at me “Don’t call me Father; else I would have to treat you as a child”. In over 50 years in various ministries in the Church, I have yet to meet another Catholic priest who abjured the honorific “Father”, a term that Jesus expressly forbade (cf Mat 23:9).

Satyanand was a bit upset with me when in an article two years ago I referred to him as John, not Joseph. I could be pardoned for that because I always knew him by his professed name not his baptismal one. In recent years we came closer when he read by latest book “The Jerusalem Code” wherein I had expected that the next to next pope, based on certain parameters would be from his native district of Palai.

However, my first interaction with the IMS was in 1969 with Tejlal who had come to my home town Kanpur to purchase a double barrelled shotgun. Kanpur is famous for its legal arms dealers. Delivery would take some time so he asked me to bring it to Theresapur, near Varanasi, where I was taking a group of the Legion of Mary. I was then fond of arms, so knocked off a few pigeons, rabbits and even a peacock at Theresapur where I left the gun for him.

Shantidham Chapel

My next interaction with the IMS and first with Varanasi would be in 1975. I had just been converted from being a good Catholic to the realization that I was a poor Christian, as I had only then encountered Jesus. My mentor at the time, Sr Adel UMI, sent me to Bp Patrick D’souza of Varanasi as she felt that he could put me to good use in his diocese.

When I met him I mentioned that I had also been advised to undergo a 30-day retreat to know what God wanted of me. He glared at me and said “Who are you to tell God to give you an answer in 30 days”? He then packed me off to Jyotiniketan Ashram, Bareilly, with a two-line chit to Fr Deenabandhu Ofm Cap. That chit kept me with Fr Deenabandhu from December 1975 to December 1982. From the Christian vocation perspective, they were the happiest and most fulfilling years of my life.

Fr Deenabandhu also had a strong IMS connect. It had been founded by a diocesan priest from Mangalore, Gaspar Pinto, shortly before Independence, as an alternative to our overarching dependence on foreign missionaries. It was meant to be a truly Indian Christian way of ministry, minus the incidental trappings of Europe or the Middle East.

Unfortunately, shortly thereafter, the IMS was floundering and on the verge of closure. That is when Propaganda Fide intervened and plucked Deenabandhu out of nowhere to be the first Novice Master of the fledgling IMS. He brought it out of the ICU and restored it to health.

My second interaction with the IMS was in 1976 by which time I had eschewed my anglicised baptismal name and switched to a kurta pyjama with a wooden rosary around my neck. One of the highly Indianised priests told me to remove the crucifix and wear a plain mala. He felt that the crucifix would be a stumbling block in interacting with others. 50 years later I can strongly affirm that it was in fact my visiting card, opening doors for me; be it in the church, society, politics or business.

This same priest gradually became convinced of the life I was living, later calling me four times to Vishwa Jyoti Gurukul, their formation house, to conduct 5-day spiritual renewal programmes for them. By then the bishops of U.P. had appointed me as the first ever Secretary of the U.P. Youth & Vocations Bureau. This brought about an amazing transformation in the region. As a result a young seminarian, Anildev, joined me for his two years of regency, sharing the Gospel message across north India. He is now the revered Acharya of Matridham Ashram where thousands of Khrist Bhakts congregate. They also have a vast social media outreach.

At this jubilee felicitation Bps Eugene Joseph of Varanasi and Thomas the auxiliary of the Syro-Malabar eparchy of Shamshabad where welcomed with shawls. I was pleasantly surprised when I was also called up to be “shawled”. Later, at dinner, I was the last in the line to serve myself. Bp Eugene sent for me, vacated his own seat at the dining table, for me to sit, and even served me. I was deeply touched. Having travelled far and wide I sense that the bishops in the north are relatively simple, not like their pompous counterparts in the south.

I also met Rev Dr Sebastian A, presently the Rector of St Joseph’s Regional Seminary, Allahabad. He too had spent one year of his regency with me and the youth. He insisted that I visit Shanti Dham Ashram run by the diocese in another part of Varanasi. It is modelled on Matridham, and cared for by the sisters of the Franciscan Clarist Congregation, as no priest is willing to reside in the ashram. Here again, I have found that this indigenous congregation from Kerala seems to have more of a missionary spirit than many sophisticated ones that came from Europe. I had first met these sisters in Bijnor diocese almost 50 years ago, under Bp Gratian Mundadan CMI, a zealous missionary.

Now let me digress a little. I travelled to and from Varanasi on the Vande Bharat Express (VBE). I had been on the same train two years ago and was not impressed. This time it was vastly improved; the coaches, staff, amenities and food service were excellent.

In our PM’s parliamentary constituency, I commuted on two elevated roads that again were excellent. On the ground though, nothing much had changed. The roads were potholed and water logged. The approach to Varanasi Junction is a nightmare. No traffic sense, no helmets, polluted and slushy after the rains. Platform No 1 where the VBE stands, is cramped. Benches for passengers are non-existent, but the drinking water taps were clean and actually had water.

A word of caution to those travelling to Varanasi, especially by the VBE. Some of these trains come to Varanasi Junction and others to Banaras station. Check your tickets beforehand. If it says BSB that is Varanasi Junction, and if it shows BSBS it is Banaras station. You could miss your train if you land up at the wrong station.

A passing vignette. In the Vishwa Jyoti Gurukul there is a 50-year-old functioning post office. It is called Christnagar. So don’t be surprised if you receive a letter from Varanasi with a Christnagar P.O. stamp.

So visiting Varanasi this time was a mixture of vignettes and vinegar. Do visit Matridham and Shantidham ashrams if you plan to visit Varanasi.


The writer has been associated with the IMS and Varanasi for over 50 years.